Landour - A love affair that's just begun..

“The world keeps on changing, but there is always something, somewhere, that remains the same.”

– Ruskin Bond

Landour, you have my heart <3


I have traveled quite a bit through the hills, but the charm this place has is different – in a mystical sort of way. It’s all about gorgeous – watercolor painting like – sunsets, absolutely rustic, lush rhododendrons in shades of Autumn (I visited in December), meandering roads leading to old British buildings and small coffee shops. It’s like time stopped. And I want to remain there, in that moment, and linger on for a bit longer.. and a little more.. 





We were short on time as we stayed in Mussoorie, but here are the places we went to and you must definitely try and visit:

Chaar Dukaan

Just as you arrive at Landour – this market is going to be right there. This is also where you can park your car (mentioning this since parking in the hills is a big issue on it's own).

Chaar Dukaan; Landour
The place is called by that name since it literally has 4 dukaans – serving the yummiest warm chai, coffee, waffles, pancakes, burgers and maggi. We loved the burger - desi and basic - the kind we would eat at our friend's birthday parties as kids, if you know what I am referring to - so fresh and warm - that we went in for round 2 after a short walk. And we still regret not trying the Nutella Pancake - that's already on our list for the next time we visit.


Waffles at Chaar Dukaan


We sat here late in the evening – the place was full since it was the Christmas weekend – and the air was cold. The winter line (A phenomenon that is unique to Mussoorie and a certain place in Switzerland only) visible, adding to the old school mystique. 

The Winter Line; a phenomenon which is only visible in Mussoorie and Switzerland

Also, there is this old handsome personality who sits right here, he wanted a bite of the waffle I think – I may have fallen for his persona and sharp eyes. 

The real natives of Landour



Café Ivy – right here, at Chaar Dukaan – with an inconspicuous entry point, is a hidden café – Café Ivy.

If you search the hashtag Mussoorie or Landour on Instagram – I can bet you are going to see a lot of images of typically their wooden railing – facing a very very thick lush deodar forest and a breath taking sunset. 

Make sure to sit outside on their balcony to fully absorb that view. 

View from Cafe Ivy, Landour


We chose to sit here for quite some time, indulging in that view, breathing in deep, enjoying our cold coffee, and I doodled for quite sometime - till the sun went down and my fingers got numb with the cold. 

Coffee at Cafe Ivy, Landour


Me, when they say they have freshly ground coffee! ... :P



Rokeby Manor

A slight walk up from Chaar Dukaan is this vintage 19th century essence and decor British building, restored and now running as a hotel - this place truly transports you into a whole other world - and you really wish time would stop. Their cafe has some delicious cakes and coffee. 




It was Christmas time - and the place was decorated - filled with baubles, hollies and stockings. And I swear I wanted to pretended like this always has been and will be my life.
The smell of wood and pine, the sound of people walking on wooden floor, the aroma of
coffee and the baking - and the sheer silence.

Emily's Rokeby Manor ; This was the spot, the window where all my Ruskin Bond reads came alive - just as I had pictured as a child. The same wooden emerald green window. Similar glow of the sun, the trees and creepers.

As though the 'Slumber' instagram filter is on, but in real time.










Every image clicked here could be used for the cover of a book..

The sun was setting and we weren't left with much time. We wanted to walk across to the Sisters Bazaar at the opposite end, but unfortunately were unable to cover it. The walk was lovely, the views - calming. With a romantic intrigue at each turn.. 





 The places I could not visit but have on my list are : 

1. Laal Tibba - for the breath taking views of the magnificent Himalayas. 

2. Churches - Church of St. Paul and Kellogg's Church.

3. The Sisters Bazaar. 

4. Landour Bakeouse - in Sisters Bazaar. 

5. Redburn Lodge - for the instagram-able vibe and aesthetics.

6. Domas Inn - lies on the drive to Landour - and is a kitsch Tibetan restaurant and inn.


This is only the start of my love affair with this mystical town - I am most definitely returning soon, with a week of no plans, no itinerary
, a bag full of my journal, color pencils and books and an empty mind, willing to wander into whichever direction it pleases.


Please do comment below if you have been to any of these places or plan to visit soon. 










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